Now in its fourth generation, the long-running Aquaracer collection began its genesis in the early aughts as an avant-garde luxury sports watch, whose bold styling was married to a degree of capability that echoed the no-nonsense “Professional” line of dive watches from 1982. As it stands, you can simply use the bezel to read a second time zone, function as an AM/PM indicator, or use as a rudimentary (albeit somewhat imprecise) timing device by using the pip at 12 o’clock as a cardinal marker. That said, it would have been nice to see a 24-hour index in the chapter ring on the outer edge of the dial, enabling the reading of three time zones simultaneously, but one of the hallmarks of the Aquaracer line has always been legibility, so I respect the decision to preserve as much of the dial’s visual identity as possible. This particular execution is much less common, usually reserved for a pricing airspace (think Rolex, Omega, and Panerai) well above where TAG Heuer tends to operate.Īt 43mm and with a richly detailed blue dial, I’m pleased to see that TAG Heuer didn’t increase the case size of the already very bold Aquaracer to accommodate the added utility of the GMT. However, a “true GMT” execution is what’s really ideal for travel, as the hour hand can be quickly adjusted independently from the rest of the watch’s functions - upon landing in a new time zone, for example. This is especially handy for those of you conducting business between time zones via phone or Zoom during the global shelter-in-place mandate.
It also differs from the GMT Master from a functional standpoint, as its Calibre 7 engine uses the traditional ETA 2892-A2 as a base - a movement best characterized as a “phone GMT,” which enables easy reading of an additional time zone of your choice, as the date and the 24-hour indicator can be quick-adjusted via the crown. Unlike the Rolex GMT Master II, which unofficially coined this bi-color blue and black “Batman” color scheme, the Aquaracer is positioned as a true dive watch, offering three times the water resistance at 300 meters.
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